WHISKY TASTING AND
WHIRLPOOL CHASING

Leon Poultney journeys through Scotland’s beautiful scenery in search of the hidden whisky distilleries only accessible by boat

Satellite map of Scotland

Images: Landsat Copernicus Google Data SIO, NOAA, US Navy, GEBCO

Images: Landsat Copernicus Google Data SIO, NOAA, US Navy, GEBCO

Satellite map of Scotland

Images: IBCAO, Landsat Copernicus, Google Data SIO, NOAA, US Navy, NGA, Gebco, US Geological Survey

Images: IBCAO, Landsat Copernicus, Google Data SIO, NOAA, US Navy, NGA, Gebco, US Geological Survey

Satellite map of Scotland's Inner Hebrides

Images: Digital Globe, Google

Images: Digital Globe, Google

Satellite map of Scotland, Oban

Images: Digital Globe, Google

Images: Digital Globe, Google

As jobs go, it’s not a bad one: go on a whisky tasting tour of the Inner Hebrides travelling on a high-powered boat, taking in the stunning sea life, breathtaking landscapes and world-class whiskies this unique area has to offer. 

So I find myself travelling to Oban, where a Highfield rigid inflatable boat (RIB) is waiting to take me to some of Scotland’s most remote distilleries. The dramatic scenery couldn’t be a more perfect setting to understand more about the fascinating process of making some of the world’s finest single malts, as well as sample the end result. 

I arrive at the Dustaffnage Marina in Dunbeg. It’s here that the team from Highfield Marine are proud to show off their latest line of aluminium Deluxe and Patrol aluminium-hull RIBs. A sleek watercraft is unveiled as our mode of transport for the whisky tour, and with its powerful marine engine, it’s hard to think of a more suitable vehicle for the job.

Highfield boat with Honda Marine engine on Oban Bay

A quick filling of the fuel tanks and we’re off on our first destination of Tobermory, navigating the Sound of Mull to reach the first of several remote whisky distilleries planned on this venture. The skies are clear and the sun is shining but the temperature out on the open water rarely gets above 14 degrees, while the wind chill factor makes it bite even harder.

Oban Bay cloudy skies

The whisky trail

Many will recognise the colourful waterfront of Tobermory from the children's TV show Balamory, which entertained a generation of kids (and gave a generation of parents some rest) in the early 2000s. But it’s also the site of a famous single malt Scotch whisky distillery that’s been operating on the Isle of Mull since 1798, with current owners Burns Stewart Distillers offering compelling tours and all-important whisky tasting sessions.

Route from Dunbeg to Tobermory

The workings of Mull's only Scotch whisky distillery is a fascinating insight into the whisky making process, with highlights including the gorgeous aromas of the cask room and the chance to savour the rich tones of the Tobermory 10- and 14-year old single malts.

Hunt hard enough and it's possible to purchase a heavily sherried number from the 1970s, but there are only 650 bottles in existence and unsurprisingly, the staff aren’t keen on punters sampling a ‘wee dram’ of that.  

Whisky tasting at Burns Stewart distillery

After a solid day navigating both land and sea, its time to head back and turn in at the Perle Oban Hotel that's located in the centre of this quaint little harbour town. Following hearty plates of food from the Cuan Mor restaurant ('cuan mor' is Gaelic for 'big ocean') and a restful night's sleep, we rise early for the second part of this boat-based distillery tour.

Tobermory waterfront with Burns Stewart whisky distillery
Burns Stewart distillery staff

The sound of Honda's powerful marine engines idling greet us at the marina, and we jump onboard for a long and butter-smooth ride south towards Islay. We speed past fishing vessels, day boats and enormous luxury yachts, only stopping to sample the Strait of Corryvreckan, regarded as the third largest whirlpool in the world.

Known as the ‘Speckled Cauldron’ and feared as a lethal trap for careless sailors, the whirlpool provides the perfect opportunity to experience what Honda’s marine engines are capable of, as we gleefully bounce around the tidal race that reaches speeds of up to 10mph beneath us.

Luckily, the conditions are particularly favourable, as standing waves of more than 30ft have been recorded here in the past – a freak of nature that should be avoided by even the most capable crafts. 

Route from Oban to Askaig, Islay

Having experienced one of the unique natural wonders of the Inner Hebrides, we head towards the Caol Ila Distillery (pronounced ‘Cull-eela’) on the Isle of Islay for our first whisky tasting of the day, but not before spotting the dorsal fin of Minke Whale playing in the waters. Minke Whales only visit during the summer, attracted by the high concentration of plankton, and make a stunning addition to the wild charm of this unique part of the world. 

High spirits

When we arrive on the Isle of Islay, we discover that our visit coincides with the Feis Ile or Islay Festival of Music and Malt. This week-long event attracts whisky lovers from across the globe with the promise of access-all-areas distillery tours, free tasting and great music.

We moor up just offshore from the Bunnahabhain Distillery, which is blaring out live music and teasing us with the delicious smells of wood-fired pizza, roasted lamb and malt whisky. Bunnahabhain, which means ‘mouth of the river’ in Gaelic, dates back to 1879 and uses pure spring water from the Margadale River, as well as one of the biggest mash tuns in Scotland to create some of the world’s most famous single malts.

Queue of people outside whisky distillery shop

Home time

Food consumed, good times had and drink knocked back, it’s time to return to the mainland. This trip wouldn‘t have been possible without the navigational skills of the Highfield Marine team and the power of Honda‘s marine engines. As I board the plane that will transport me back home, the words of Highfield Marine‘s director Steve Harrison ring in my ears.

“You could spend your entire life exploring these small islands off the coast of Scotland and never see everything.”

Sounds like the perfect excuse to return. 

Highfield boat on Speckled Cauldron, Scotland
Caol Ila distillery waterfront

Leon travelled on two HIGHFIELD PATROL 660 RIBS, one with a HONDA BF150 engine, the other with the more powerful HONDA BF200. The Patrol is an ideal work boat, handbuilt to withstand the toughest conditions and able to carry large loads using the power of the Honda engines. The advanced technology of each 4-stroke engine is fine-tuned to deliver even more horsepower, using Honda BLAST™ hole shot technology with PGM-Fi electronic fuel injection to deliver instant acceleration to get you up on to the plane quickly and smoothly.

The second RIB Leon experienced was the HIGHFIELD DELUXE 590, an ideal boat for family cruising, which offers an impressive amount of storage and a higher level of comfort, while still being able to cope with the toughest of conditions. The Deluxe 590 was powered by a HONDA BF100 engine, which delivers more power and better fuel economy for a thrilling ride. The BF100 offers the unique Honda VTEC technology, which optimises engine performance and reliability throughout the rpm range.

HIGHFIELD PATROL 660 RIBS with Honda Marine engine
Honda Marine find out more